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Klay Blog

Hannah's Tokyo Tips

I have been to Tokyo a few times, but only spent about a few weeks here all up, so my tips are not as comprehensive & refined as my Kyoto Tips, as I spent 6 months in Kyoto, so had time to filter down and select our top recommendations from a lot places. But the tips below are places we really liked & would suggest to friends. Like with the Kyoto Tips, we visited a lot more places than this, but not everything made it to these tips!

These tips are based on things we researched, or heard about through local friends. I have also included some that I haven't actually been to yet (I have noted these) things recommended by a friend that lived in Tokyo, that I will get through next time we visit.

General Tips

Tokyo is so big & it can take a long time to get to different areas, so I have grouped these recommendations by area. We try to break up our stays in Tokyo into different areas, as there is just so much to see in each area. We try to stay close to train stations. Be prepared for a lot of walking!

Like with the Kyoto tips you do need to double check opening hours/ opening days before you go/ plan your trip! Each place has unique opening hours. Even after months in Japan - we still get caught out from things being closed. Don't trust google hours. Lots of places don't update their google hours - especially the places I have suggested, as they are not usual tourist places! Double check on social media etc. Some places might require pre-booking, but I found in Tokyo it was less common to pre-book than Kyoto.

We sell a couple of books about Japanese architecture, that I found helpful to read/ research before going to Japan. 'The Japanese House Book' is actually how we were introduced to a lot of Japanese architecture that we visited (I didn't learn about them at architecture school!). The book introduced us to architects & projects that would then lead to us googling/ finding other books on specific architects... then finding what buildings were open to the public etc. The other book I suggest is 'An Illustrated Guide To Japanese Traditional Architecture And Everyday Things', which is a great introduction to understanding design in Japan. The things in both my Tokyo Tips page and Kyoto Tips are just things that Mason and I personally enjoyed! It is all subjective. There is SO much in Japan & you might enjoy different things that you learn about in these books, which is why I suggest reading them before going.

Jimbocho (second hand book town)

We stayed in Yushima area when we planned to visit Jimbocho. We walked there, or caught a little local bus to get there.

2nd Hand Book Shops

There are A LOT of bookshops in this area, so give yourself enough time to enjoy looking through many of them. I am mostly interested in architecture and design books. Here are the bookshops I liked best:

  1. Nanyodo Books - Architecture book shop 
  2. Kitazawa Bookstore - This one is upstairs. It isn't a specifically design bookstore but I enjoyed it
  3. Isseido Book Sellers - It has two stories & the design books are upstairs. It is a really beautiful old shop.
  4. Komiyama Book Store - This one focuses on fashion & I was not that interested in these types of books personally, but it might be worth checking out if you are interested in fashion/ design. I did see some old copies of STREET magazine from the 2000's that were fun to see :)

Food in Jimbocho area

I am a vegan, but I have to be flexible when we are in Japan as I struggle to find good vegetarian food. I have to accept some fish broth. My food tips are based on research we have done ourselves and places that local friends suggested knowing that I don't like eating animals, or touristy places :)

  1. Kanda Yabu Soba (lunch) - This was one of our favourite places we ate in Tokyo. We had a lot of soba in Kyoto, but this was different because it was more like a dining hall cafeteria. It really felt like an institution. We went just after it had opened and it was already full and had to wait in a line, but it went very fast. Make sure you allow enough time to wait (maybe 15 mins) and go early. This was suggested by two different friends I trust very much that have spent a lot of time in Tokyo.
  2. Santosham - South Indian Food. I used to live in India & I am particular about Indian food! I loved this place & I think it is the best Indian food I have had outside of India, it is owned by a Japanese couple, but they have obviously done a lot of research to create authentic Indian flavours. It is on the Michelin Bib Gourmand (value for money) list. It is open for both lunch and dinner. You need to book in advance - try message them on their instagram page, or via the link in their bio? We booked in person for the following night after a failed attempt to just show up! :D
  3. Imoya - (lunch) Tokyo Teishoku Tenpura (one menu). I have not been here YET! As it didn't work out for me timing wise when we were in this area. It looks/ sounds amazing. It was suggested to us by our friend Jun. We are going to go here next time we are in Tokyo.
  4. Udon Maruka - We didn't make it here, will go next time :)
  5. Takemura - Wagashi (traditional Japanese sweets). Another suggestion from Jun (they are always very good) that we didn't make it to, well we technically did, but we stupidly went on a Saturday hours after they opened & there was a massive line around the block! It is very famous (for locals), so if you do go, make sure to go perhaps 15 mins before they open to start to line up & don't go on a weekend day :D
  6. Sasama - Monaka. Another wagashi place we didn't make it to. We will go next time!
  7. Gurgaon - Indian Curry. Haven't tried this place yet!

Shibuya

We don't have many tips for Shibuya as we didn't spend a lot of time here. We mostly went here for architecture/ design book shopping.

  1. GA Bookshop This is an excellent architecture bookshop/ publisher. They also sell good second hand design books.
  2. Toto Bookshop Another great architecture bookshop/ publisher. They also have a couple floors that are art galleries (showing architecture exhibitions). Very good.
  3. Daikanyama T-Site Massive book/magazine shop with almost any topic. This feels like a big corporate chain store compared to the small indie shops I usually like going to! But it was really incredible to go to such a big magazine store & be able to find multiple good magazines and books on very specific topics - for example I got a few amazing magazines on bread baking for a baker friend!
  4. Pejite This is a homewares store that restores Japanese antiques. Mason had been a fan of their work for years before we visited. They also sell pottery and essential oils. They have a big store in Mashiko (pottery town) & the Tokyo store is small but still worth a visit.
  5. Found Muji A shop of Muji's project "Found Muji" (different to their usual range) of finding handmade & studied items from around the world.

Food in Shibuya

  1. Brown Rice (lunch) This is a vegan cafe that serves traditional Japanese food. It is owned by Neals Yard Remedies & they have a shop next door. I really enjoyed my lunch here & we had some yummy organic plum wine that we still think about.
  2. Kissa Lion Cafe (playing classical music) - This is not a bookshop! It is an old school coffee shop. We didn't make it here, but look forward to going next time.

Shinjuku

We didn't spend much time in Shinjuku, but I know it can be very touristy in places. There wasn't much drawing us there, apart from the Yanagi shop! But if you do find yourself there, here are some suggestions a Japanese friend passed on.

  1. Sori Yanagi Shop This is a bit out of the way, but very much worth it if you are a Sori Yanagi fan like me! This shop is small but sells a lot of Sori Yanagi items (and books) that I hadn't seen before that are otherwise not available. We went twice as the first time... it turned out to be closed. Learn the lesson from us & double/ triple check opening hours before you go anywhere & do not trust google hours in Japan.
  2. Manma - Onigiri (lunch) This is a famous onigiri place. It was suggested by two Japanese friends. We waited in line for about 20 minutes. Shinjuku is touristy, so there were some tourists (as well as locals) in the line too. I got a bit flustered and overwhelmed when it came time to order & wish I had studied the menu better/ understood about how to combine flavours, but it was still great & I liked the side of pickles & soup too.

Below are a few other things friends suggested, but we didn't make it to:

Ginza

We love Ginza. It is so fancy & fun to walk around and admire the buildings and people. Fancy in a way that feels good. There are parts that feel like a time warp.

  1. Shokunin inside the Okuno building. This is an apartment block built in the Showa era (1926-1989). It is a good example of early modernist architecture. It is now filled with antique stores & also has the Tokyo showroom for one of our favourite stores Shokunin.
  2. Renzo Piano's glass block building. We just observed this beautiful building from the outside (too scared to go into the luxury fashion store!). We didn't realise there is a gallery, which is free and open to the public to enter. I will go in next time :)
  3. Dover Street Market. This place has a zoolander vibe... people take fashion very seriously here, even though a lot of it is very playful... there was literally a rack of clown costume inspired clothing in one area... but no smiles. One grumpy staff member, who refused to smile back at me was wearing a badge that said "I am fucking brilliant". It is a pretentious place... but still fun to see.. if you have the energy for some serious/ silly (?) fashion :D I would only suggest this if you happen to be in the area. We wanted to visit a sweet potato place down the road, so it was worth it. (See food tips for Ginza below).
  4. Mega Muji I do try to support small businesses.... but I do love good design... and I do love Muji. This is a MEGA MUJI. It is HUGE.

Food in Ginza

  1. Baked Sweet Potato They ONLY serve sweet potatoes... and sweet potato shakes. They roast the sweet potatoes in clay pots for several hours. The insides are so soft and sweet. I loved it. https://www.instagram.com/tsubo_yakiimo/
  2. Ginza Lion Beer Hall A big beer hall from 1934. Very busy and fun!
  3. Miyazawa Sandwich place This place is open until 4am! (but has odd opening hours). It is an old school cafe. The chef had a ciggy in his mouth as he cooked and took orders :D They are famous for crab cream croquette (which Mason ordered). I had a vege sandwich and an iced coffee. Fun to see the fancy locals stop in with their drivers waiting outside.
  4. Ginza West A fancy cake/ tea/ coffee shop. They have a take away area at the front, but to the left is a door to go and sit inside. This was filled with fancy Ginza local ladies who have just been shopping. We had yummy cakes and coffee.

Asakusa / Ueno / Nippori / Yanesen

There is quite a lot to do in these areas & I have grouped a few together here! I should suggest making sure you have enough time to get between places.

Tokyo National Museum. They have great exhibits of Jomon & Yayoi artefacts. Incredible pottery and craft.

National Museum of Western art. This is Le corbusier's only building in Japan. I really liked the glossy brown floor <3

Nippori Fabric Town

This is a street/ area that has a lot of fabric shops! There are a lot! Most of the shops have a little english paper guide you can take that has all the shops on a map listed.

We are fans of the Melbourne CIBI cafe (and their cookbook) and had a nice breakfast at their big CIBI Tokyo cafe. It was close to Fabric Town. It was filled with Australians :D

Close by (15 min walk?) is a very beautiful Japanese craft homewares shop called Matsunoya. I have been a fan of their products for years and always wanted to see their full range in person. We didn't get our timing right so we actually missed out on visiting their shop. I will try to go next time.

It is in an area called Yanaka... this is a very touristy area... I wouldn't really suggest coming to this area/ main street generally.

Kappabashidori Kitchen Street. This is quite touristy these days & I think the Kitchen Street in Osaka is better! But if you aren't going to Osaka & like ... kitchen things it is good to see/ pick up some Japanese kitchenware.

Onigiri Asakusa Yadoroku - A small family run Onigiri (lunch) place. It is on the Michelin Bib Gourmand list. I have not been here yet, but I will go next time.

The following bakeries were suggested by a Japanese friend. They were very very very good:

Other things in different areas/ further away

Edo Tokyo Open Air Museum

This is about a one hour train & bus ride away from where we stayed in Tokyo. We enjoyed seeing the buildings from different eras and how they were likely lived in/ used. There was one building we wanted to see in particular: the House of Kunio Maekawa, which we found out about from reading The Japanese House Book (which we sell on our website & I highly recommend reading before going to Japan.

D&Department Store

I have been a big fan of D&d since Chloe Larkin (who designed our website) introduced me to it years ago. It is a lifestyle store, a world, a universe of good, long lasting design. They have shops across Japan (and Korea!) & each one focuses on specific regional specialities of the area they are in. It is very inspiring. They also restore/ sell vintage furniture. And some of their stores sell food too and some even have cafes :) they also publish guide books. I suggest trying to find any in areas that you go to. We went to their main Tokyo store, which is actually a bit of a mission to get to & nothing else in the area. But for mega fans like us, it was worth it.